Leaving Spain

This is my last night in Spain. Now that I've found a café with jazz & wifi, it's too soon, but then again, after speaking with Anita on the phone earlier today, perhaps it's not soon enough!






Tomorrow, the train: what took me 30 days to walk will take me 13 hours to sit through. Then, the overnight train to Paris.

Spain is gorgeous, and Santiago has its treats, but the last two nights were the first time in over four weeks that I've stayed in one place for so long, so yes I'm getting restless. Oh, and I can't wait to emerge from the traib in Paris wearing my zip-offs, hiking boots and bandana and make the French choke on their morning coffees as they murmur 'trés vulgar!'


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Loving your enemies

I used to think that I didn't have any enemies, but now on the camino I see that's not true. Not only have I met some great people on the camino and made a few friends, I've also had to deal with some quite antisocial behaviour from others and myself - snoring.

There is a basic injustice about snoring: this sign that someone else is sleeping soundly is the same thing that robs everyone else of a good night's sleep.

In the daytime snorer's are normal people, but at night they are transformed into something altogether else as they insist on demanding one's full attention as they perform their best imitation of a jet engine or Harley Davidson. After a long day of walking, a shower and a sleep are the two things that not only allow one to relax but get ready for the next long day of walking. So, imagine how hard it is to love those who seem so intent on depriving me of the sleep I need. I don't enjoy being grumpy, but as one snorer replied when told of his behaviour, "what can I do?"


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Someone commented that there aren't all that many 'spiritual' posts on my blog. In fact the blogging isn't going as I'd liked: I already mentioned the difficulty connecting, and add to that short amount of time I have when I do connect. Walking at about 5km an hour for (on average) 30km a day means - among other things - moving slowly, but also moving often. So time for extended reflecting and writing usually comes at the expense of sleep. But still, I have been writing, and when I can intend to transform journal entries to blog posts.


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Getting closer

Well, it seems that all of the extra walking has paid off: I'm making good time and should be in Santiago before too long, just over a week now. It's exciting to look at a map of Spain and to trace the route. Initially it felt daunting. Each day brought new blisters, but now each day is 20-30km closer to my destination.

It's so nice to have afternoons off and be walking only 4-6 hours a day, rather than 8 or more, as now the longest days are behind me. There's surprisingly a lot to be done in the evenings: mostly it's just washing (I only brought two sets of clothes) and also some shopping so I don't have to eat out every meal. Life on the road has it's own rhythms, but still each day on the road creates work for that night.

More photos

Yes, I know that a lot of people have been enjoying the photos and wanting more... but it's time consuming.
Finally, I got around to it though. I hope you enjoy them.

Normal life intrudes

I've really enjoyed having time outside of everyday time. Pilgrimage has its own rhythms and routines, and as a friend I've made along the way explained: the walk doesn't add anything new to who you are, it just istills it so you can see and deal with that reality.

Well, that time apart has been put on hold: yesterday I had to do some shopping, including replacing a phone charger. Until now blogging and keeping touch has been relatively easy, but I think I will be getting a bit more remote. Sorry, but that means less blog posts. The other thing is that finding an internet cafe or wifi hotspot also involves a big trade off when I have to eat and get ready for the next day, and even sleep. I find that walking is not the only part of pilgrimage, there are 'chores' also. I do hope to keep things up to date, but it's like shopping in a way - another 'normal' thing to add to the list that doesn't really get me closer to Santiago.

Also, though I've got some great photos, this internet cafe doesn't have an SD card reader or wifi, so sorry but none of them now.

Here's a quick recap of some highlights though:

• sleeping one night on the beach - buying an icecream then unrolling the sleeping bag and still waiting at 10pm for the sun to set.
• another night in a monastery - it was a long, hard walk, with an afternoon thundershower but Valdedios was lovely, and the hospitality was grand.

A few more nights on the coast, then I head inland. Hopefully some more nice pilgrim hostels to stay at.

Busy walking

Okay, a quick update from a public computer in a department store...
I'm in Oviedo, which is about 60% of the kilometres. In days, I'm about half way through, so things are going fairly well.
I've been without a phone or email for ages - hence the blog silence - but hopefully that won't be for a lot longer... but who knows.
I have plenty of cool photos and stories, but no time (yet) to post, I'm afraid.
As a consolation, head over to Anita's Facebook page and check out our holiday pics.

Santander

Well, I was wrong about being a quarter of the way to Santiago: it's actually more like one third!
I'm now in Santander and enjoying the relatively flat, but usually paved and sometimes dangerous roads. Life had settled into a nice little routine, walking in the morining, stopping in a large town or city for lunch and a siesta before walking again in the afternoon or evening to a small city to sleep in. Well, you know how I am with routine, today I mixed things up. I walked pretty much straight through to this regional city, and was glad I did. This afternoon I got my first rain while walking, only a few drops but I'm hoping that the weather forecast is wrong for th next few days and that it stays dry. I'm also planning shorther walks now that I'm a few days ahead, to get back into the smaller towns.

Flickr photoset

It seems like the easiest way to keep updating photos is through Flickr. So here is my photo set of the camino del norte. I hope you like them, I'm having to be selective, but hope to add at least one for each day when I am able to upload.

Almost a quarter of the way

Due to the lift I got to Bilbao and two big days if walking, I'm bow almost a quarter of the distance to Santiago. That puts me about 2-3 days ahead of schedule. So, it may mean that I get a break (who knows when I might be forced by illness or injury to slow down or rest up) or simply get to Santiago early. I like this second option.

Today I walked 30km and yesterday 35. If- as I plan - I walk an 30 again tomorrow, I will have done in three days what the guide has in four. The added benefit of this is that I end up having lunch and a siesta where most others stay the night, and then go on to a smaller town or village for dinner and to sleep. Often its easier to find good food in these smaller towns, and the smaller refuges are quieter.

Yesterday I caught up with an earlier travel companion and at about 8.30pm we finally arrived in the small town we were to stay at. The key had to be collected from the local bar (the only one) which was a great excuse to take our packs off and have a cold one. Then when we got to the newly renovated refuge, we found we were the only ones. The quiet night was welcome.

Of course the larger hostels like we're staying at tonight have their benefits: fridge, lounge, and wifi for example.


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Good and...

I haven't been blogging the last few days because I've been staying more interesting places than the hostels and pilgrim refuges. First, after the big walk to Markina, I went on about 6km further to stay at a monstery. It was fantastic - only six other pilgrims. Even though it was a longer day I also managed to have more time for reflection and journalling and managed to attend vespers (sung night time prayers) with the monks and a couple of other pilgrims.

I've met a couple of good travelling companions, both speak English and one speaks Spanish, which has come in handy. The three of us joined up the afternoon after the monstery in Gernika (Basque spelling), the town in Picasso's famous Guernica (Castillian spelling) and had every intention of going on to another town or staying wherver we could get shelter and maybe even clean water. Instead we encountered the most incredible hospitality I've ever heard about. We were offered the garage floor of a local man who gave us a lift to the family farm in the back of his van. When we got there, we met the rest opf the family, went for a swim in their pool, were given beer and put on a load of laundry. Though we brought dinner with s, they cooked for us anyway and we had a couple of nightcaps. As if this wasn't amazing enough we were offered a lift to Bilbao this morning and were greeted with this sunrise vista:

Then, this morning, things went a little differently. When we got to Bilbao we found that the small refuge was closed. Permanently, but the new business had failed to take down the old sign. Then, when we went in to town, there was a general strike with accompanying protests. So, though I could go to the pharmacy to get more blister gear, I couldn't post more stuff ahead to lighten my load nor get the other new supplies I needed. Frustrated with both occurences, our group split up and the other two headed to our next stop while I tried to find what I could on my list. Another permanent closure, an incompetent and incomprehensible store clerk and now, here I am. More or less give up on rejoining the other two, and having wasted a day I worked so hard to get ahead on. Oh well, that's life, and that's the camino.

Blister pics

Warning, they're gory.


















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Spelling mistakes

Yes, I know my writing is horrific on the blog. Posts are typed in a hurry, often tapped out on an iPhone. I apologise and hope you understand. Anyone still offended is invited to contribute to better tapping by buying me an iPad.

Zarautz - Deba

Another 22km down, and I'm grateful for the advice about blisters - probably pharmacy supplies are my greatest expense so far as Compeeds aren't cheap. I think it's just a matter of wearing my feet in and hardening them up. Thankfully, I've a good opporuntity for that tomorrow: the trek to Markina is fairly remote, with no food or house for the last 15km and no water for the last 9km. And it's steep.

As I'll cotinue to do for the rest of the camino, I kept silent today until lunch. Then, with good timing I joined up with a couple of other pilgrims just after I started walking again after lunch. I really enjoy having the quiet time to myself in the morning, and get a lot of thinking done, but it was surprising how encouraging it was in the afternoon as we climbed another 300m, to have people to talk to. The time, the distance and the incline all diminish.

Now, off to the beach.

Donostia - Zarautz

An easier day today, which was good. Someone in out dorm last night, sleeping in the bunk next to mee created a massive racket at midnight and 5am. Ah, this trip is making me long for the simple things- like uninterrupted sleep! Lucky I don't know where he was from: I would be forever prejudiced against that country. Unless it was Australia.

I had amazing hospitality again today- a hotel offers a special meals for pilgrims, so k hot a bottle of wine and a three course meal for €10!

Another swim in the ocean, and also more blisters; I see a pattern emerging here...




[Zarautz, old town, where I sat at a closed pub writing this post]

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Donostia

Donostia is probably the nicest city or town I've seen in Spain so far, not that I've seen much of it. It has three main beaches, and, for all that locals don't wear to the beach, they should start wearing tevas (like me) or aquashoes of some kind: there are more rocks than sand. Yes, I went for a swim.

Still, they've kept a lot of nice old buildings and lots of green space. Their new blocks don't look slummish, but well set out with good pedestrian scale and common areas. Also, the bike paths are excellent. The shops and bars are a bit pricey, though. All in all, this town wouldn't be out of place on the French riviera.

I got to see more of it than I'm expecting to see of other towns as I had some chores to do: going to the pharmacy and post office, both to do something about the blisters.

Now, if only I wasn't aching all over, but especially on my knees, feet and shoulders, I thinknid enjoy it even more.

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Irun - Donostia

Well, the first day of walking is over. I waqs expecting a nice easy introduction, but certainly was disappointed. I walked over 30km today, and the worst parts were always whenever I couldn´t find something.

I´ve just got back from a 'shopping' trip to refill my blister supplies (lucky I can't upload photos here!) and lighten my load by 3kg by sending things to myself at my destination, Santiago. Important things, like books and my thermos mug. Desperate times...

My walk today was eventful in other ways - as I had been praying, God has brought me into contact with other Christians. I recieved some lovely hospitality from some Christians who live in intentional community (shared money, work) and also a French couple I met at the albergue (pilgrim's hostel) yesterday are also going to Taize when I am.

Well, that's it for now, these are shared computers and I also have to send an email to my wife, who must be home by now!

Now in Irún

I'm at the starting point for my walk, Irún, less than 2km from the border with France (maybe I'll walk there too). As well as drafting blog posts and reading while on the train here from Barcelona, I also paid attention to my changing surrounds: greener, but warmer.






In other words, I'll be getting wet before too long.

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Steinbeck

"People don't take trips, trips take people." - John Steinbeck.

It's obvious almost to the point of being cliched, but true. Some of the best parts of our trip were the ones not in the itinerary: jogging through the early morning mists and crowds of geese in the Englischer Garten in Munich; the BBQ at the guest house in Ostereinen (the village on the lake outside Füssen, the town on the border with Austria); driving part of the Tour de France - possibly the steepest, windiest part; having to follow some locals to a guest house on the Rhone because the roads were to small to be in our map; and last night, walking through the medieval streets of Barcelona's gothic quarter to have a busker playing Bach mournfully on a bandeneon.

Yes, where trips take us is often better than where we take trips.

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Barca v. Bayern

So, though I've said a lit about how good Bayern (Bavaria) is, I really must be careful not to ssy too little about Barcelona too.

Apart from the proliferation of British turistas (and the occasional Aussie, too), Barca is really quite livable as a city. I love 'bicing', their residents' bike scheme; their metro; the fact that Miro, Gaudi, Picasso and Dalí all get their own museums; the winding streets of the gothic quarter and the closeness of so many natural highlights.

Barca is a beauty, but still, I'm happy to be on my way, back to towns and villages as I walk across Spain. I've enjoyed the luxury and culture, but now it's time for relaxation and nature.


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